Siren City: Photographs of Naples
The Estorick Collection of Modern Art, London
30 June - 12 September, 2010
Everyone seems to know the saying see Naples and die, but nobody knows its exact origin. It is widely believed that Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the great German writer, first coined the phrase. When I visited Naples a couple of years ago, two things struck me about the city (It was the time when the bin men were on strike). First, that at one time it was truly a magnificent city with architecture similar to that of Seville (now buildings in Naples are in need of investment to restore them to their former glory) and secondly, people live life on the streets (I have never felt or experienced such intensity of life). The photographer of the current show at the Estorick, Siren City: Photographs of Naples, Johnnie Shand Kydd explains:
Another gift for the photographer is the theatricality of the city, which uses every street and piazza as its stage. Privacy is an utterly foreign concept here with every door open for those outside to glimpse in and those inside to gaze out. There is no barrier to speak of between the public and the private”
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| Easter Procession, Procida
2005 Silver gelatin print 50 x 40 cm |
I visited Siren City hoping that the show would capture the vibrancy, dynamism and deterioration of Naples– I was not disappointed. The show in a way reminds me of documentary photo journalists such as Reginald Marsh. The images capture both the isolation of the city and bustling inner city life. The photographs document the traditions and customs of Neapolitans such as weddings, trips to the beach and the ordinary everyday happenings like children playing in the street. Images reflecting the religious aspect of Neapolitan life include Easter procession, Procida. In this image we see six children with a Noah’s Ark, inside which are live pheasants, ducklings and song birds. The artist does not shy away from contentious issues such as the defacement of buildings and artefacts - goal posts are painted on anything regardless of architectural importance. The lack of investment in Naples’ cultural heritage is very obvious.
Amongst some of the more exotic aspects of Neapolitan culture evoked in Shand Kydd’s pictures is Patricia playing Lotto . Patricia is a ‘femminiello’ and Shand Kydd explains A femminiello is not a transsexual, but a man who has had breast surgery but nothing further. They usually make their living by prostitution but also play an important role in local society, often being used as babysitters. Lotto is an extremely ancient and complex ritual based on numbers, which has been a passion in the city for centuries. The femminiellihave traditionally presided over the lotto though this is now becoming rarer. His/her role is almost shamanistic, acting as a conduit between the spiritual and corporeal worlds.”
Shand Kydd has captured Naples and anyone interested in the meaning of see Naples and die will surely find a clue here.
www.estorickcollection.comNehrain Khalifa, 2009